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Jewellery Catalogue co.uk

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    PLATINUM AND SILVER

    In the 18th and 19th century silver settings were considered better than gold, to enhance the brilliance of diamonds.It was considered to display a white stone within a white metal setting was better than a yellow setting which might draw a yellow light into the stone.
    Settings were much heavier during this period with a tendency to enclose the sides and underneath the stone.

    Early silver was imported from Bolivia, Chile, Mexico, and Peru.
    Open back settings were introduced in 1800, which allowed light to penetrate from the back of the stone,with a simple ring of silver set around the girdle of the stone.
    In1860 in West Nevada USA ,the Comstock lode of silver was discovered ,this led to a dramatic increase of silver jewellery production.
    A lot of this silver jewellery was mass produced and so became much more affordable as there were fewer labour costs involved.
    Silver filigree is the use of silver wire, widely used throughout the ages in the intricate production of jewellery. Because the wire is so malleable it could take the form of swirls, circles, wavy lines and straight lines, thus allowing the form of animals, birds, flowers and butterflies to emerge in the form of jewellery.
    It is difficult to put a date on filigree pieces as it is a technique used in Europe for centuries

    Platinum became fashionable in the 1920s and 30s, although it had been discovered much earlier by Spanish settlers in South America, they called it Plata which is their word for silver
    It was very rare and difficult to melt ,due to the high temperature recquired and therefore seldom used in jewellery manufacture

    In 1805 The Prince of Wales purchased a watch chain made of Platina but it was not until 1870 that it was recorded as a strong setting for diamonds. There are very few early examples of platinum jewellery as it was so difficult to work with that most jewellers did not attempt to use it.

    It was not used widely as a setting until 1900
    Many of Cartiers early 20th century pieces were set in platinum

  • 20th CENTURY JEWELLERY.
    Until the early 20th century mainly precious and semi-precious materials were employed in the jewellery trade.
    Jewellery was the prerogative of the rich until the first world war ,when there was an increasing interest in the creativity of jewellery design.
    In the 1920s coral and jade were very popular and earrings became longer as women wore shorter hairstyles. Brooches also became fashionable and were worn everyday on coat collars and not just as evening wear.

    It also became more affordable to the middle classes and was influenced by changing fashions and the introduction of costume jewellery.

    Platinum was introduced in the 20th century
    This ductile, malleable precious white metal is very strong and jewellers were able to create lace like settings.
    It has a very high melting point of 1772 degrees centigrade, which is 700 degrees higher than gold.This makes it difficult to work with.

    ART NOUVEAU JEWELLERY
    Art Nouveau means new art and spans the period 1895 to 1905.
    It was at its height in Brussels and Paris around 1900 and took its name from Samuel Bings shop which opened in Paris in 1895 and was called Le Maison de le Art Nouveau

    Its characteristic swirling graceful lines, whiplash curves and tendrils ,often using the mythology of the "femme fatale" with flowing locks of hair, the winged dragons, dragonflies and peacocks.
    It originated in France, then inspired other European goldsmiths.
    The British decorative motifs featured floral tributes, Celtic patterns and primaeval figures, often crafted in silver and enamel.

    ARTS AND CRAFTS 1880 to 1935
    during the second half of the 19th century a new style was developing ,alongside traditional jewellery, under the influence of Pre Raphalite artists, and later , William Morris. The designer May Morris, the daughter of William was an embroiderer and jeweller and donated her collection to the V and A
    where it can be admired to this day.

    Individual gilds of designer craftsmen formed around the country and started making innovative, colourful, hand made articles, using natural lines and forms.
    They continued until 1930 and were known as the Arts and Crafts Movement.
    They encompassed Art Nouveau and Art Deco (decorative) styles. Many original and beautiful pieces were made during this period.

    ART DECO JEWELLERY
    ART DECO was a minimal clean cut modern look 1919 to 1930 consisting of geometric shapes and well defined lines.
    Craftsmen used images of speed such as the automobile,aeroplane,gazelle and the greyhound.
    There was a strong Egyptian influence after the discovery of Tutenkhamuns tomb in 1922, with the use of the scarab beetle, turquoise, coral and coloured crystal.

    In the 1930s due to economic hardship, a more conservative attitude was back in favour.
    The 30s characteristics were a streamlined soft look, curved feminine fashions of flowers sprays and bouquet jewellery.

    Long earrings came back into fashion with the arrival of the Eton crop, a boyish hairstyle
    Necklaces were extended by the addition of a tassel or pendant
    Baguette cut diamonds became fashionable and black and white jewellery featuring onyx and diamonds were in demand
    The double clip was also used a lot in the form of a brooch which could be taken apart and used as two identical dress clips

    IN THE 1940s to 1950s The 2nd world war affected jewellery production, purchase tax was 125% and 9ct gold was used for home production

    Ribbed tubes of gold were used in the 1930s and were fashionable for bracelets and neck ornaments throughout the 1940s

    9ct gold was in prominent use, as platinum had been requisitioned for the armaments industry
    long lengths of pearls, glass beads and numerous bangles were the more casual fashion,also, silver and marcasite jewellery came into its own.
    Many abstract motifs were used but also flower and bird designs retained their popularity

    The contemporary style of the 50s was for sculptured shapes in bright pastels and primary colours, and the charm bracelet and the ankle bracelet became fashionable.

    IN THE 60s jewellery was worn in large quantities, huge chunky necklaces, bracelets, and earrings.

    DESIGNER jewellery is often hand made and purchased for its quality and individuality.

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